Cordoba city -Cordoba capital- has a long history and is one of the few in Argentina where its so visible in the street, which are not square blocks but a random mix of streets going in every direction similar to Europe. The city has a nice colonial style with plenty of very old churches.
A full day it’s enough to see the highlights of the city if you are good for walking but two days will be more relax.
Gateway to explore Cordoba Province
Cordoba city is the starting point to explore the rest of the province which is the main attraction because of its nature.
Don’t forget to try the cabrito (young goat), the goat cheese and the Fernet con Cola, the most popular cocktail here and probably in the whole country. Make sure it’s Fernet Branca and Coca Cola. You will find any of this in the city and the rest of the province.
Things to do in Cordoba City
Plaza San Martin
Around the Plaza San Marin -main square- you will find the Cabildo de Cordoba with its beautiful gallery on the street and a very distinctive style on the inside.
Breakfast: start the day with a coffee inside the Cabildo at the Novecento Cabildo.
The Cathedral is another must see place, don’t miss going inside, it only takes a second and it’s worth it. Once done take a walk through the Pasaje Santa Catalina (between the Cathedral and the Cabildo) and keep going to the Jesuit Block -Manzana Jesuita-.
On the way there you can also add a stop at the Convento San José de las Carmelitas Descalzas.
The Jesuit Block and Estancias of Cordoba go back to the 1600 and where declared part of the World Heritage Sites by UNESCO because of the cultural importance.
Here we find the Iglesia Compañia de Jesus -Society of Jesus Church- and the National University of Cordoba. It’s possible to go inside both on your own or join a guided tour in spanish or english (0.50 USD) that covers both. Interesting if you want to learn about the relations between education and church long time ago as well as how the universities in Argentina manage to depend on the state money to be free of charge for the students but got autonomy to elect democratically the authorities of the university by the professors and the students.
On the same block we also find the Colegio Nacional de Monserrat, another pretty building with a nicely preserved colonial style.
Lunch stop: the elegant Sibaris Restaurant or the chill Casa Galán across the cañada.
La cañada is a small river west of downtown and the street that follows it.
This walk is very pleasant specially in warm days when the trees cover up the sky providing a refeshing natural shade from the strong sun.
Nueva Cordoba -new Cordoba- is the modern area south of the historical downtown.
Start the walk around Patio Olmos along the Av. Hipólito Yirigoyen until reach the Paseo del Buen Pastor, a vibrant area with views to the Iglesia de los Capuchinos -Sacred Heart Church of the Capuchin Fathers-. The whole area is full of bars and restaurants. Finish the walk on Palacio Ferreyra, a nice palace turned into museum.
Coffee stop: Novecento. Outdoor beer: Craft -pintas y growlers-.
Dinner: Ciento Volando in the area or further away San Honorato.
Guemes is a colonial architecture neighbourhood -although quite modernized- that is popular thanks to the big number of bars.
The spotlight goes around the Paseo de las Artes where every Saturday and Sunday 17:30–22:30hs takes place the feria artesanal -craft fair- on the streets.
Where to sleep in Cordoba
Downtown is not so big. If the hotel is within, it’s a good option.
There are no special views, looking at the main square is one option but hotels there are not worth it. Looking at the cañada is another good one although I wouldn’t consider it very important for choosing a place.
- Windsor ($$) great hotel at a good price. Great facilities including a beautiful rooftop pool, a great bar and good food. I highly recommend it. I stayed here.
- Caseros 248 ($$) the best rooms. It has a nice tranquil feeling. Best option if your priority is the room. Very practical if you come with a car. I also stayed here in another occasion.
- Amerian Executive and Amerian Park ($) are nice and usually have the cheapest price.
- Hostel: Alvear Hostel.
Where to eat in Cordoba
- Casa Galan ($$) cosy house-restaurant style. Lunch only.
- Sibaris ($$$) elegant modern restaurant with great quality food. Try to 2 or 3 steps seasonal menu, good price, NOT included or translated on the english menu. This restaurant is part of the Windsor Hotel.
- San Honorato ($$$) best restaurant in town. Beautiful recycled style with a wine basement to go after ordering your meal and wait trying some wines and appetizers. Food quality is exceptional, try the cabrito (young goat) this province specialty. Tender and testy. Best to come for dinner with reservations. Location: General Paz neighbourhood.
- Ciento Volando ($$) dinner and drinks. The menu is limited but the quality is very good, focus on dinner with long dessert of cocktails and wine.
- Novecento Cabildo ($$) stylish coffee shop inside the Cabildo, in one of its patios.
- Novecento ($$) another stylish coffee shop. I recommend it as a resting stop for drink something. The meal menu is limited and not very tasty.
Drinks and nightlife in Cordoba
- Craft -pintas y growlers- good for some outdoor beers.
- Barbeer drinks and some food after sunset.
- Clarke’s Irish Bar: pub, late drinks.
- La Cova del Drac: pub, late drinks.
- Vidon Bar drinks, the one in Alta Córdoba, not in downtown.
Recommendation for a full day:
- Breakfast in Novecento Cabildo
- Plaza San Martin
- Jesuit Block
- Lunch in Casa Galan o Sibaris
- La Cañada
- Coffee in Novecento
- Nueva Cordoba
- Beers in Craft
- Dinner in Ciento Volando or San Honorato